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Thread: TRAXIDE AMAROK Dual Battery kits

  1. #121
    Supporting Member Fritz's Avatar
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    G'day Tim,

    I was under the bonnet the other day and noticed that the led on my SC80 wasn't lit. Or flashing.
    I haven't done any checking with a multimeter but I know it was charging my camper (same day) at 14.1v so everything is connected. I haven't had any trouble with the battery in the tray running a fridge 24/7 and about 1.5 hrs of running a day. I do plug it into 240 most nights though.
    Anyway just letting you know.
    Jamie

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  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdwinP View Post
    I have read you suggest 2x100amh than one large, can a second be added easily to this type of system at a later date?
    Hi Ed, and you only need thicker cable between the two batteries.

    As far as the number of batteries you can have. You can fit as many as you like.

    The ruling factor for recharging any number of batteries is your alternator, not the isolator, and Amaroks have a decent size alternator.

    So you can add any number of batteries, and if in a low state, your Amarok will recharge them in a realistic drive time.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz View Post
    I was under the bonnet the other day and noticed that the led on my SC80 wasn't lit. Or flashing.
    Hi Jamie, and the LED should either be on constantly or flashing.

    If neither is happening, you have a fault.

    This could be a simple as the LED having taken a hit from something or it could be more serious.

    Either way, it is a warranty job.

    If you can remove the isolator and send it to me, it will be fixed and returned under warranty.

  4. #124
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    Hi @drivesafe,

    can you give an indication of how long it might take to install one of your kits, AM-D3-T for example? Someone with knowledge and experience? Various factors play a part, just looking for a bit of a rough idea though.

    Thanks

  5. #125
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    Hi Slug, excluding the installation of the battery and it’s mounts, between 3 to 4 hours for the average DIYer.

    For someone who has worked on Amarok cabling before, probably under 3 hours to fit the AM-D3-T kit.

  6. #126
    Forum Slave EdwinP's Avatar
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    @drivesafe what is the lead time to have one of kits made?

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  7. #127
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    Hi Edwin, there is a 1 week lead time for all our kits now.

    This is one week from payment to actual delivery ( to most locations in Australia )

  8. #128
    Super Moderator Drew's Avatar
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    Hi Tim, @drivesafe - If I were to install a small solar panel on the rails of my canopy to maintain a reasonable SOC (compensating against shopping trolley syndrome) how large would the panel need to be?

    I drive about 60-90 minutes a day, and will have the start battery and an 105 AGM to take into consideration. I've found that the Waeco 36Ah battery won't run the fridge overnight, even when fully charged when it's hot...
    Cheers, Andrew

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  9. #129
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    Hi Andrew, do you leave your fridge running all the time?

  10. #130
    Super Moderator Drew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Andrew, do you leave your fridge running all the time?
    not necessarily... but when we go away, I'll have the CFX50 in the Rok, and 250Ah worth of AGM's in the camper...

    I'll use my folding 160w panels for the camper when we're parked up and away from camp...
    Cheers, Andrew

    ACV - Sand Beige Highline

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  11. #131
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    Ok, then with no fridge running off your Amarok batteries, an unregulated 5w to 10w panel will easily charge and maintain your Amarok batteries with out the risk of over charging, no matter how long you leave the solar panel connected.

    The reason I asked about whether you leave the fridge running is because I have quite a few tradies, who continually use their fridge while working and just leave them running permanently and in this sort of situation, depending on the power consumption of the fridge, you would need at least a 50w panel with a solar regulator, connected to the batteries in the Amarok.

  12. #132
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    Tim,

    I wish I found your threads on here and AULRO, and your Traxide website a while back. Your info and advice seem very well regarded.

    Can I ask - what problems do you foresee with my existing 6mm2 cable (to the tub aux battery if I installl a usi 160 with 35mm2 winch cable) when using winch mode? Typically I'd use the winch on 30secs rest 30secs. How likely is the cable to heat to an unsafe level? There's 210 a/h of AGM batteries in the tub.

    I remember reading a post from you somewhere about the amp contributions to winching from the alternator / cranking battery and the aux battery in this scenario but I can't find the thread. What limits or determines what contributes to this? The capacity of the alternator? The capacity of the cabling or the aux battery state?

    Is there a real overheating risk and should I go to bigger cable to the tub? There's not really the option of an engine bay aux battery.

    Thanks in advance,

    Nick
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  13. #133
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    Hi Nick and you have actually raised a lot more questions then you have asked.

    You say you have 6mm2 running to the Tub mounted batteries. Is it 6mm2 AUTO cable ( which is actually 4.5mm2 ) or is it 6mm2 ( Marine 6mm2 ) cable.

    Either way, that size cable is next to useless in a dual battery system, but it can, VERY SLOWLY, charge your batteries. If your batteries were low, it would take around a 20 hour drive to try to fully charge 210Ah of batteries.

    As for winching purposes, that size cable, if not protected properly, will be down and outright dangerous and even winching in 30 second cycles, could still lead to the cable ( read wire ) igniting because it just could not cool down enough between winch cycles.

    Next, as above, if the 6mm2 was protected properly, with no larger than a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker at each end of the 6mm2 cable, then within a few seconds of you starting to winch, the fuse or circuit breaker would go open circuit ( it would blow ).

    The minimum size cable you need, to be able to get a decent use of the auxiliary batteries while winching would be 25mm2, but with 210Ah battery capacity, if you went to 35mm2 you would get a real benefit from your auxiliary batteries while winching.

    With 25mm2 cable, you would need a maximum of 150 amp fuses or circuit breakers at each end of the positive ( + ) cable and for 35mm2, you could go up to 200 amp protection.

    BUT, before you do anything, you must be sure that your specific brand and model of AGMs can actually be used for winching, and note, MOST AGMs can NOT be used for winching.

    Hope this is of some help!

  14. #134
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    Thanks, I think you have crystallised my first point - I wish I spoke to you prior to setting up my "camping" setup and then after the fact thinking through whether I would use it for touring / winching / jump starting the cranking battery.

    I suspect my "camping" AGMs - I'm not sure of the brand - are fine for camping purpose, but I should have considered an optima yellow top in the engine bay for the afterthought reasons above. That still might be an option later on.

    Can I ask another question - if I fit a USI 160 controlling my tub setup, run it in shared or ignition mode (NB not winch mode), and run a winch off the cranking battery then will this winching affect the aux batteries?

    Nick

    PS One of the batteries is a Century AGM C12-105DA
    Last edited by NickB; 19th March 2017 at 13:57.
    MY14 Highline Starlight Blue
    Dynamic 16" Rims
    BFG 265/75/16 M/T K02s
    Rhino Liner
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    210ah AGM - Projecta IDC-25
    Android 8" Unit - IR Reverse Cam
    Crispmods Intake
    Harrop Breathers - HPD Catch Can
    ICOM IC-450 - RFI CD963
    Outback Accessories Tray - Optima D34 - Traxide USI-160
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  15. #135
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    Hi again Nick.

    If you intend to update your system, you can fit a USI-160 isolator, but instead of using it in WINCH Mode while operating your winch.

    Because of the thin cabling to the auxiliary batteries, set the isolator to IGNITION Mode while winching and this will turn the isolator off when you do some hard winching.

    When not winching, leave the isolator set to SHEARD Mode at all other times.

    Once you finish your upgrade, then use the USI-160, as intended, to link all your batteries together while winching.

    PS, I can not locate any specific info about your Century battery, so I can not tell if it is suitable for use in winching operation.

  16. #136
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    Thank you.

    Nick
    MY14 Highline Starlight Blue
    Dynamic 16" Rims
    BFG 265/75/16 M/T K02s
    Rhino Liner
    ARB Ascent Canopy, Roller Floor RF1045
    My DIY Mods:
    210ah AGM - Projecta IDC-25
    Android 8" Unit - IR Reverse Cam
    Crispmods Intake
    Harrop Breathers - HPD Catch Can
    ICOM IC-450 - RFI CD963
    Outback Accessories Tray - Optima D34 - Traxide USI-160
    SuperTrim Covers
    FrontRunner Platform - Maxtrax x4
    Fyrlyt 5000's - Net 4x4 Mount
    STEDI 26" Slim LED & 7.3" Side Floods - eBay 18w Rear LEDs
    HMBE Batt Monitor

  17. #137
    Supporting Member snapsimo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickB View Post

    Can I ask another question -


    If he had said no I would have had beer coming out of my nose


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