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Thread: Really poor handling in the gravel

  1. #1
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    Really poor handling in the gravel

    Does anyones else's rok handle poorly in the gravel/corrugations? I am wondering if it is a rok think or something wrong. Driving in a straight line hit some corrugations and the arse goes straight out traction control kicks in and rips it back. I drove our forester over the same road for the first time and was blown away with the difference. This has been bugging me for a while but only after the trip in the forester am i thinking it cant be right.. Now my wife just got home and said i am never taling this car again! I have owned a few other 4b's and they never behaved like this. Have got good suspension but it was still a bit skittish even with the oem setup. Any thoughts or people experiencing any similar would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

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    Do you have any kind of load in the tub? What tyres do you have on your ROK? What true pressures are you running?

    A combination of no weight in the tub, tyres with stiff sidewalls (think BFG AT KO2) and high tyre pressures will make your ROK bounce all over the place.

    I have run Bridgestone D697, BFG AT KO2 and Yoko Geolander G015 on my Rok.


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  3. #3
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    Cheers for your reply mate. I am actually running the ko2 and i do love them put 30000k pretty hard ks on them, they are nearly shot but no blow out yets. Checked pressures this morning cold and are 29 psi. I just leave them at that as pretty much all of my driving is in the gravel. No weight in the tray, so this might assist me with making a desicion on a canopy.

    So i guess my question is.
    What pressure would you recommend?

    Is a canopy enough weight? (I have the oem HD springs in the rear)

  4. #4
    Supporting Member fossROK's Avatar
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    #Ashc, so many things could be the cause of this however assuming everything is functioning ok, then comparing a forester (independent rear suspension) with a dual cab ute with a leaf sprung rear axle may never favour the Amarok. However, some weight in the back will help, and if your ute is a manual, you could put it in high 4 to settle it down. An auto is already AWD so don't worry about that, but try the off-road button as well. Utes handle badly (generally) as they are hamstrung by their construction.

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    Matt
    Ravenna Blue V6 Amarok Ultimate

    Interested in joining the Amarok Club of QLD? Email info@amarokclubqld.org.au for an application

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    I am running canopy, draws, fridge, long range tank and sliders. The ROK sit at about 2600 to 2700 kg. With a fairly even weight distribution with about 1200kg on the front and 1400kg on the rear. I also run higher coils in the front and SAX 3DS springs in the rear with 25 mm blocks and Koni shocks. It is very hard to compare apples with apples.

    I did find that the KO2 s with a 122 load rating made for a harsh ride. I was running about 35 on bitumen and 26psi on dirt.

    I have found a tyre with a load rating of 110 to 115 is ideal. I am currently on Geolanders, they are well balanced and quiet but still seem to handle nicely on gravel. I run about 41 on bitumen and still about 26 psi on dirt.

    At the end of the day selecting tyres are a compromise in performance in different situations. I do a lot of touring and not as much serious off road now so the Geolanders are fine. You need to do what is right for your use.

    I guess the best of both worlds would be to have two sets of tyres and rims. I did this for a while but it is hard to justify cost, storage space and effort in changing them.


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    Cheers mate. I am heading off again tonight so will drop a bit more air and see how that feels.

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